Between 2008 and 2013 I had been doing minor restoration work on CV when she was hauled out for annual maintenance and was more concerned with taking part in club racing and in particular with the Classic Yacht Association of Australia fleet. When hard on starboard tack CV would take on some water from what I imagined was a loose seam just above the waterline and this ingress of water was managed by the automatic bilge pump. However, there were occasions when the bilge pump failed and I only became aware of problems when looking below to see water above the floor boards, and if this occurred when the first mate was on board mild panic usually ensued as the boat was deemed to be sinking. Invariably this would happen whilst racing with much amusement from my not so concerned club members. The leak had to be fixed.

Thinking that the leak was due to a cracked frame near the transom I hauled CV  out and sought the services of a local boat builder, Ferdi Darly, to inspect and quote on the repair. Ferdi's assessment was that the leak was not due to the cracked frame but more to do with the state of the transom to which the planks was fastened. His advice was to repair the transom and strengthen it with a new knee that would tie the transom to the existing transom knee and the beam shelf and then re-caulk a section of  planking at the transom. The following diagram, although not an actual cross section of the transom, shows what was eventually achieved.

Ever since I bought Corio Vertue back in 2003 I knew there were problems with her transom and did a minor 'bodge job' as at the time I was too afraid, and inexperienced to undertake any major structural work. However it was now time to take the bull by the horns and do the work.




This is the old transom and it's not a pretty sight. There are two covering boards (level with HBYC) which hide the ugliness. At each corner there are the chain plates for the twin back stays.



You can see the state of the transom.
Once I took the covering boards off this is what was revealed! The back stays were attached at each quarter but were not supported by anything except the transom and hence the splitting and rot.
I removed the hardware from the transom and I built a template so I could faithfully cut the new transom section. Although I only needed to replace the top 30 cm I took the template further down so I could get a decent curve for the transom.
Once I had cut out the rotten timber the the transom beam had to be replaced, This was not an easy job as the top of the top of the beam had to b beveled to accommodate the curvature of th desck.
I had bought a Kauri board to replace the old transom but could not afford to waste it so fashioned a template from MDF. This took a long time as getting the bevels right and the curvatures would ensure  a good fit with the final piece.
The tail ends of the planking had to be extended so that there was a way of attaching the new planking to the transom.
The new transom attached. Note the two bronze bolts that secure the transom to the transom knees.
In order to fix the new transom knees to the structural components of the boat I had to remove about 60 cm of the after deck, The photo shows the fashioned knee and where the bolt holes will need to be drilled.
Details of the new knee and where it would be affixed to the transom knee.The transom knee is made of Jarrah and is at least 2" thick. The new bronze bolt is screwed through from the new transom.
This shows the bronze bolts connecting the deck, the transom knee and beam shelf. Note the cleaned out plank seam.
Calking the seams at the transom.
New deck piece in place.The new deck was bonded with epoxy an dynal cloth and the new knees bonded to it,
The new transom in place.
The finished transom with new stainless steel rudder stock. A week after CV went back into the water after 3 months of work she won the last race of the Classic Yacht Association of Australia 2013 summer series.
View from the deck